The old gaming rig are 8 years old now, so it´s time to build a new one (for use at least 6-8 years). Today the old rig has as follow: ASUS ROG Maximus III Extreme Mobo with 24 Gb DDR3 memory, i7 930 2,80 Ghz CPU, ASUS GTX 780 graphic card, SATA HDD. (I have only made some small upgrades over the years).
New gaming rig.
This rig shall be ready at the end of this year…… (It will probably “for normal consumers” as me, (lol) end up on the top range of gaming rigs, aka “overkill” and it´s so costly so I can only afford one part every month or must wait to next month to buy next item, it will take me a long time to build this rig, but I can wait).
- First out, was the new chassis: The ”Godzilla” a Super-Tower chassis. This is due to the 27.2" height, the 9.9" width and the 25.6" depth. (Corsair Obsidian 900D chassis). LOL, it´s huge!
Then, what Mobo? Well, I have upgrade my old model to the new IX model! Why not? It´s a water-cooled motherboard. (ASUS ROG Maximus IX Extreme).
My choice when I shall put in more memory, have given me a problem, what memory can stand tall for the next 6-8 years? I think it´s going to be a set of G.Skill memory.
- Now I got them, the G.Skill TRIDENT Z 3200 -CL14 will do the work for me, and they are looking good. :) Let´s see what the are made of, later.
Watercooling, 1 or 2 loop? (Mobo and graphic card) 12V or 24V? The only thing that I´m sure about are that will be a Laing D5 system. Time will tell.
Got Monsoon EV2 compression fittings and PETG hardline tubing (black) for the piping work so far.
MORE IMPORTANT INFO coming soon!!!!! About hardline tubing, and errors about the PETG tubes. See @ the bottom part. Updated.
Fans? With low dB noice! Noiseblocker?
Now I have some new fans at home; 1x Noctua NF-A14 FLX 140mm and 6x Noctua 120mm PWM (NF-P12 PWM). And I´m waiting for 3x Noctua NF-S12A PWM 120mm. In total 10 fans. Calling for a storm inside "Godzilla".
Well, by the way, lot of fans reminds me one little thing, the graphic card have also 2 more fans :)
Looking for a new and "better" mouse. Until now, I have use both a MAD CAT R.A.T.7, little to short for me and a ROG - SPARTHA.
Sry to say, but it stop working, after 50-70 min, every day I have us it, the last 2-3 weeks.
SPARTHA is perfect in my hand, but I can´t trust it any more, stop working in a middle of a Rift or a boss fight or. . . . lol. (Yes, I use cable on it).
Can a RAZER - OUROBOROS or a MIONIX - NAOS 7000 be a better option? Must find a shop were I can lay my hand on them and testing and more testing.
Graphic card: I started my PC-build going for a water cooling system, so I now follow it up with a brand new graphic card, have just order it: ROG Poseidon GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Platinum edition 11GB GDDR5X.
I hope it will hit the marked at the end of this month.
YES! I shall pick-up the graphic card tomorrow :)
Back home, with the beatific card.
To get a better airflow, my Godzilla (Corsair Obsidian 900D) will have a modification with some parts from Coldzero;
1x 900D Side 5.25" Cover Extended (Full)
1x 900D Backplate (Fan Cut-out)
1x 900D Psu Plate Cover
This three pcs will make the air to race over the mobo and out at the top :)
To take care of the water, I will use: Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual 5.25” Reservoar.
The waterloop shall have 1x Phobya G-Changer 140 V.2 - Full copper rad between the mobo and the graphic-card. (Just to stop the watertemp to raice before it hit the graphic-card loop)
For cooling of the water: 1x HW HW-Labs Black Ice - SR2 360 MP and 1x HW-Labs Black Ice - SR2 240 MP, I belive it will do the work for me.
PSU? 1200 or 1500W? Digital? Platinum Plus 80?
I think it will be a Corsair AX 860i or AX 1200i. Need some more information about this 2, what´s the difference? (Other than 860/1200W).
Order one Corsair AX 1200i today, I think it was the first delivery in EU for a long time, not many shops have them (yet).
More information follow, as the build going forward.
A little warning about PETG tubing.
“Testing takes time and we had to wait and see what happen'd. Over the long term we saw that PETG shrunk and micro fractured when using biocides and/or glycol/industry glycol/chemical glycol“.
So, what about daylight/sunshine and algae in your water system? It´s not so good. Then you need to add biocides or inhibitors, (but not in PETG tubing) to get rid of these algae etc a.s.a.p.
Yes, you can use PETG tubing and add biocides or inhibitors, BUT you MUST replace both the PETG tubing and clean up the whole watercooling system/loop EVERY 6 months or so, to be on the safe side. It will take a lot of time and cost money. (To be safe from start, use copper, glass or acrylic tubs when you hard tubing your computers).
- “When testing we found that just adding water and leaving overnight will turn the water Acidic meaning that either the rads have not been flush or somehow there is still acid left in the system and if somehow air is trapped in your rad end tank, when acid is left on copper and air is introduced (in particular oxygen) it will create Copper Oxide over time, this will affect any coolants in your system. Always make sure you remove all air out of your system and bleed them correctly.
- Always flush your system fully and correctly and sometimes water alone does not do it. If you are going to acid clean your system using vinegar then you must neutralize that acid afterwards. You can use bicarbonate of soda to help do this”.
An easy way to clean-up the water system is: “To balance it out better before you use any liquids in your system we recommend you first clean your system with water (tap water will do) then using Bicarb (the baking soda you can get from any shop) mix 1 TSP with some water and rinse the system though again (this will neutralize any acid in the system), then finally flush with DI water.
- With tiny particles of sticky flux, the best advice for now is run your system with water + biocide for 1 month”.
Where to found out more about this? I can recommend two pages of this:
Oc page, have lot of information about color in waterloops and everything about watercooling (fluids) you need.
But, lot of it, is talking about personal issues that you will/can jump over or get some good ides/information from it.
Best water for cooling systems:
1/ Distillated water (real boiled water)
2/ Demineralized and Deionized water
3/ Deionized Water ("DI water" in the chemistry labs)
And maybe also:
4/ High-purity demineralized water with very low or no contents of organic matter and microorganisms.
IF, you ask me, add MAYHEMS XT-1 Nuke Clear Concentrate Coolant to the water. And nothing else!
This is what you can find in water, so be careful what you use in the computer system when you have a watercooling system.
The impurities of water:
Inorganic salts/common ions:
Iron, manganese, ammonium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, bicarbonate, chloride, sulphate, fluoride, and nitrate.
Dissolved organic compounds:
Naturally occuring: humic acid
Contaminating: pesticides, phenols, solvents, oil, and petrol
Sand, rust, and colloids
Bacteria, viruses, algae, and fungi
Carbon dioxide, oxygen, methane, and hydrogen sulphide
- Sry to say, but that's what you can found in the WATER! (If it´s not clean).
(Can´t do it better that this, for the moment). (Look @ my WATER page).
(Trying to make a homepage with some picture from my build, coming later this year)
Last update: 09-01-17